Alexandria was a huge change from the bustle of Cairo. Our hotel here was the Salamlek Palace Hotel – which was actually a palace.

It stands in the grounds of the Montazah Palace Gardens, and was built in 1892. All of the rooms are fabulous — we had a junior suite, which had a great wooden roof like a ship’s hull, and shuttered windows that looked out over the garden. THe sheets were something like 1000 count cotton and felt like silk. We just lounged about in the rain and listened to the storm outside.

There was an elevator attendant. For maybe four guests. Very posh. Of course, we made our once-per-trip foray to McDonalds from here — very surreal, eating fast food from a five-star hotel.